Category Archives: Travel

5 Hidden Café Gems in Tokyo for Coffee, Tea and Desserts

  1. Butter Coffee Stand
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Famed for its instagram-worthy seasonal lattes, caneles and cheesecakes, Butter Coffee Stand is a small cafe in the Nakano area. With just 3 small tables for indoor seating, it is recommended to visit on weekdays to avoid queueing outside. 

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Since I was in Tokyo in spring, the sakura-themed drinks and desserts were on the menu. Out of which, I had the Beets Latte with Espresso (JPY700, +JPY100 for oat milk). It was an interesting pick, made with homemade beet syrup made from raw, pesticide-free beets and combined with several spices. Overall, the elements blended well and I enjoyed the subtle spices. 

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I also had the Sakura Canele (JPY500, JPY450 with drink) made by kneading sakura-an (sweet bean paste) and sakura powder into the dough and using cherry liqueur. Though the outer layer was overly hard, the insides had a sakura mochi-like texture with a moderate sweetness. 

From the regular menu, I had the Matcha Latte (JPY650, +JPY100 for oat milk) which had a good balance of umami and sweetness, and the normal Canele which I felt could be skipped. 

Tip: Check their instagram to find out about their seasonal offerings and time of availability.  

2 Chome-1-1 Arai, Nakano City, Tokyo 165-0026, Japan 

Mon to Fri 8am – 8pm 

Sat, Sun and holidays 10am – 8pm  

2. Kasiki 

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If you are looking for quality ice cream after lunch or dinner in Shibuya, Kasiki is my recommendation. On the menu is a list of interesting flavours, from which I chose 2 after an internal battle with dilemma. I had the Lemon and Saffron and Black Sesame, Sea Salt and Maple Syrup (JPY850 for double scoop) – the former was refreshing with hints of saffron that I could detect, and not overly sour, while the latter was rich with both savoury and sweet tastes.  

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On top of being an ice cream parlour, Kasiki also serves a selection of wines, coffees, and teas. I found it cute that my Norm Tea House Ocha Japanese Tea (JPY500) was served in a wine glass – it made me reminisce the days before I banned alcohol from my life.  

1 Chome-13-2 Nishihara, Shibuya City, Tokyo 151-0066, Japan 

1pm – 9pm, closed on Wed and Thursday 

3. Saten Japanese Tea 

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Slightly off the beaten path is this quaint Japanese tea house in Suginami City. The tea house specializes in single origin Japanese tea, matcha, hojicha and an (red bean paste) butter toast. Sitting relaxedly at the terrace seat which is right by a small street, I thoroughly enjoyed the Matcha Latte (JPY640, +JPY150 for oat milk) which was full of umami and slight bitter tones.

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I also got the seasonal Sakura Mascarpone Toast (JPY600) to pair with my drink. The mild cherry blossom-scented sakura-an and mascarpone were topped on white toast and made for a simple breakfast snack.

Japan, 〒167-0054 Tokyo, Suginami City, Shoan, 3 Chome−25−9 ロアジール松庵 

10am – 7pm daily 

4. Like 

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Like restaurant is located above the BioTop boutique clothing store in the same building. The atmosphere was lovely – with high ceilings, full glass windows, and even a dedicated area for live band performances. As I went in the late afternoon, their full-fledged lunch and dinner menu were not being served, so I had coffee and dessert instead.

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The Café Latte (JPY630) was just normal, but if there was one thing to order here, it would be their signature Peanut Cream Puff (JPY660). Made as a choux pastry, the outer layer was thin and crisp. Hidden beneath is a generous filling of peanut cream that was both light and fragrant without that heaviness or dense texture of peanut butter.

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The good thing about coming at mid to late afternoon timing was that the café was barely filled, with no need for reservation, so you get to enjoy the laidback vibes without the crowd and noise.

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11.30am – 10pm  

Closed on Mon and Thurs  

4-6-44 3F, Shirokanedai, Minato-ku, Tokyo, Japan 108-0071 

5. Chigaya Kuramae 

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The Kuramae area, what used to be an industrial district, is getting popular for the many modern stylish cafes that have taken their places in the neighbourhood amongst the older units (factories, tanneries, manufacturers, etc.).

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Chigaya bakery is one of them, with an outstanding décor and theme which took inspiration from classic American bakeries in New York. The red and white gingham curtains are a key feature, paired with wooden tables and chairs, open displays of sweet and savoury bakes and whitewashed walls and cabinets.

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I visited right on time when their signature light and fluffy Cream Donuts (JPY470) were freshly fried and out on display, and snagged it together with a Strawberry Danish (JPY450), Maple Cream Bread (JPY450)  – homemade maple cream cheese, walnuts, figs and Iced Latte (JPY650).

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While most patrons came to takeaway the bread and pastries, I recommend easing into the seats with a book to soak in the ambiance of this cutesy bakery while nibbing into their quality bakes.

8am – 6.30pm daily 

2 Chome-8-11 Torigoe, Taito City, Tokyo 111-0054, Japan 

Ogawa Coffee Laboratory, Tokyo – Specialty Coffee and Breakfast from Kyoto

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Hailing from Kyoto, the long-established coffee roaster expanded to Tokyo with its first flagship in Sakurashinmachi 4 years ago. Being one of the few cafes in Tokyo which open as early as 7am, I visited the café for an early morning breakfast and coffee fix.

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I loved how the spacious café boasted a modern concrete industrial look with muted tones, with floor to ceiling windows permitting lots of exposure to natural light. The interior design also featured details such as old paving stones that were used in Kyoto’s tramways.

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Before settling down, orders must first be placed at the counter.

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From the morning menu (served 7 – 11am), I had the Charcoal Grilled Toast with Avocado and Lime (JPY1,600, SGD13.8). It came with a choice of Pain de Mie or Whole Grain bread for the toast – I would typically have whole grain as a healthier choice but with the excuse of being on vacation, I went for the pain de mie. After being charcoal grilled, it had a crisp outer layer while retaining its soft, fluffy inner layer. As simple as a dish it was (what some people will claim to be something they can easily whip out at home but never do so), the avocado toast was satisfying.

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The toast set included a choice of drink, so I had a hot oat milk Latte made from the House Blend Kyoto. It was a well-balanced coffee with a smooth mouthfeel with tasting notes of dried fruit – a daily coffee that was very drinkable.

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Their list of signature coffees (created by their baristas) was tempting, so I added on another drink – the Bright Sense (JPY1,100, SGD9.5). The barista served the single origin coffee in a fancy glass to my table, where she then delicately added the fluffy milk foam. The milk foam made a good balance with the passion fruit-like acidity characteristic of the Kenya Gatuyaini beans.

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As a sweet treat, I had the Whole Grain Scone with Seasonal Confiture and Tonka Bean-Flavoured Buttercream (JPY1,400, SGD12.1) which was a relatively new item on the menu. Being whole grain in nature, the scone felt less doughy and buttery than the usual scone – in a good way.

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With over 21 variety of coffee beans on hand and separate lunch and dinner menus with extensive food choices, I would love to pay another visit.

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3 Chome-23-8 Sakurashinmachi, Escalier 1F, Shinmachi Setagaya-ku, Tokyo 154-0014, Japan

7am – 10pm daily

Nearest station: Sakura-shimmachi North Exit (~4 mins walk)

Protokoll Roasters (프로토콜 상수) – Aesthetic 3-storey Café in Sangsu with Great Coffee

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I first came to know about Protokoll Roasters while they were operating their first and only outlet in Yeonhui-dong. Since then, the brand’s success has expanded enough for them to open a showroom and an aesthetic 3-storey café in Sangsu.

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When I visited the Sangsu outlet, the showroom was unfortunately closed as they were busy running a booth at Seoul’s Coffee Expo. This showroom served as a multifunctional space for baristas to explain about Protokoll and the coffee they serve, to conduct coffee tasting and brewing classes, and for other baristas to try out their equipment – all on a reservation basis.

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Right behind the showroom is the full-fledged café serving just coffee and financiers. As I came in right at opening hour, I explored the 3 storeys freely while waiting to collect my order. I loved the part industrial, part classroom-like interior – the exposed ceiling, bare concrete floor, wooden drawers with metal handles, metal lamps, all seemed to be in harmony with one another. The chairs and tables were also arranged to mimic a classroom setting, with stationery and notepads placed on the tables.

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On the menu for espresso coffee, there were 2 types of beans I chose from: the Super Normal Blend, which is the very first blend created by Protokoll, and Pureut (푸릇) which is a Single Origin.

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I had a Small Latte (KRW6000) with the Super Normal blend. It had a good body but not too heavy for me, with tasting notes of dark chocolate with a subtle tartness.

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Apart from espresso coffee, there were also a range of Filter Coffees from Ethiopia, Costa Rica and Columbia.

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There were only financiers (supplied by a bakery called Elder Franc) served in 4 flavours on the pastries/dessert menu – the Butter Scotch Almonds, O Lemon Marmadlade, Earl Grey Chocochip, and Espresso Vanilla. I had the Espresso Vanilla Financier (KRW3800) which was just alright. It could be rather dry to have it without the coffee pairing.

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I highly recommend coming early to grab the window seats which gives you more privacy. Coffee connoisseurs must try this café.

13-4 Eoulmadang-ro 2-gil, Mapo-gu, Seoul

Sangsu Station Exit 4

10.30am – 9pm daily

OOJ Coffee Club, Seoul (공공재 커피 클럽) – White Aesthetic Café in Anguk, Specialising in Coffee and Tiramisu

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The café scene in Anguk, where Bukchon Hanok Village is, is highly competitive with big names like Onion, Café Layered and London Bagel Museum attracting not just locals but foreign tourists increasingly. Not too far from these cafes is OOJ Coffee Club, which specialises in specialty coffee, drinks and tiramisu.

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You can see why I had this café on my go-to list from the interior itself – it seemed to be effortlessly designed and set up to be minimal, with a focus on creating a white and airy space that becomes even more inviting when naturally lit with the morning sun. I found my favourite spot in the café, where the all-white camping table and camping chairs were and thought to myself to save it as an interior design inspiration for my future home.

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I browsed through the menu, which was divided into 3 sections – Espresso base coffees (no filter here), non-coffee, and desserts.

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Though I was highly tempted to get their specialty non-coffee drinks such as their Burning Ceylon Tea (KRW5,500) and Lime Vanilla Ade (KRW6,500), it was still early in the morning which means i was in 100% the mood for coffee.

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I had the Oatly Latte (KRW6,000), which was slightly too bitter and acidic for me.

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Thankfully, this was balanced out with the desserts. I came 1 week too late for the winter special which was the Strawberry Mascarpone Tiramisu (KRW9,500), so I had to go with my second choice which was the spring special – Banana Brulee Tiramisu (KRW8,500). The tiramisu base (sponge and cream) was the same for all flavours but the toppings varied. Mine was topped with a banana that was sliced and bruleed. Unlike a lot of desserts in Korea, this was subtly sweet and not overly saccharine.

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It was a huge slice, and admittedly I had to takeaway half of it to continue with the rest of my café hopping journey that day. The one thing I appreciate in Korea is how they would pack anything for you in nice boxes with cutlery and napkins.

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10am – 9pm daily

35 Yoonboseon-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul, Korea

Nearest station: Anguk Station Exit 1

대한민국 서울특별시 종로구 윤보선길 35

Nest, Seoul – Rooftop Tea Café beside Tosokchon Samgyetang with View of Bukhansan

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A few strides away from the ever-bustling Tosokchon Samgyetang (famous ginseng chicken soup) was a nondescript building which houses a tea café, Nest. From the main entrance of the building facing the main road, take the lift to the 5th floor and you would expect to see the café right in front as you step out.

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Minimalistic in design, the café boasted exposed ceilings, a mix of wooden brown and white chairs and tables and silver counters and display cabinets. Large window panels lined the café and provided patrons a view of the neighbouring Seochon Hanok Village with Bukhansan (Mount Bukhan) in the background.

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Towards the far end of the café, there was a retail corner that is delicately designed like a showroom, where you can get things like condiments, trays or even postcards.

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The café operated on a self-service basis, where ordering and picking up of food was done at the counter. Specialising in tea, the menu had various teas, both caffeinated and caffeine-free which I had a hard time choosing from. Eventually, I went for the Apple Vitamin (KRW5,500 for hot, KRW6,000 for iced). The combination of hibiscus, rose hip, apple and orange made a naturally sweet fruity tea with a slight tartness. If you’re into fruit teas, this would make a great choice.

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Food-wise, the dishes on the menu were on the healthier side, with plates like a humus salad and basil chicken sandwich. I chose the most interesting sounding one, which was the Burrata Pea Croissant (KRW14,000). It came with a croissant with ham and cheese filling, and burrata cheese, peas and a grated carrot salad on the side. The flavours were clean and healthy tasting – I had suspicions about the peas at first but they were mildly sweet and went well with the burrata. The price point was also wallet-friendly, considering there was a whole burrata.

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For dessert, I picked the Black Sesame Roll (KRW8,000) as a black sesame fan. I enjoyed the mild black sesame flavours of the chiffon and light cream, however I found the chiffon portion slightly dry.

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If you’re feeling peckish from touring Gyeongbokgung or in need of drinks after a heavy lunch nearby, this is a hidden café, not crowded with tourists, that you could visit.

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21 Jahamun-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul대한민국 서울특별시 종로구 자하문로 21 5층

11am to 10pm daily

Nearest station: Gyeongbokgung station Exit 2

Nachbar Coffee House, Seoul (나흐바)

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Specialising in filter coffee, Nachbar is a small café situated in Seochon (one of my favourite neighbourhoods!) in Seoul. I first went in spring and made a return visit in autumn – that fact on its own is a big testament to how much I liked the space and coffee.

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In spring, the cherry blossom tree right next to the café creates a picturesque little scenery and casts nice shadows on the white façade of the café. The large open windows also allow for natural light to illuminate the space and patrons to people-watch while sipping their coffees. In the café, the mood was bright and cheery.

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At the moment, the café is owned and solely operated by its owner, a single man show. (So waiting time might be longer if it’s a full house). He gathers a small range of filter coffee beans each time and it changes on a regular basis. The prices also differ according to each type of bean. Since the café started as a filter coffee specialty bar, I had chosen the Honduras Reyes from Goro Coffee Roasters on my first visit. I enjoyed the brew which came tasting notes of lavender, peach, and brown sugar. There was a certain level of tartness and acidity which was not overpowering for me.

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In autumn, a long carpet was rolled out in the cafe and the atmosphere became cosier, with people huddling in their winter jackets and coats. This time, I noticed the owner brought in an oat milk option so I had the Latte (KRW5500, + 500 for oat). The latte was a light roast with tanginess and tartness.

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I also found out that the owner recently started selling homemade Cinnamon Rolls (KRW5000 each) so I got one of it. The outer layers had a slight crisp while the inner layers were slightly fluffy and sufficiently (but not overly) sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar. It would have been even better if the bread was softer and fluffier, with some cream cheese spread on top.

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As I indulged in my coffee and pastry, I found it amazing how the same space could have a different mood and atmosphere as the seasons change.

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42 Pirundae-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul 대한민국 서울특별시 종로구 필운대로 42

11am – 7pm daily (check their Instagram before going!)

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Edition Denmark, Seoul 에디션덴마크 (서촌 티쇼룸)

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Edition Denmark is a brand founded by 2 individuals – a Danish and Korean – with the aim of introducing Danish products to Korea. There are 2 outlets in Seoul, a tea showroom in Seochon and a full-fledged café and eatery in Seongsu-dong.

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After visiting the former in spring this year, I was impressed by their service, quality, and ambiance so much that I visited their main café in autumn. (I will review that in a separate post.) The tea showroom is a naturally lit, small and cosy space near Seochon Hanok Village which focuses on namely 3 products:

  1. Premium tea by A.C Perch’s Thehandel
  2. Raw, creamy honey by Danish Beekeepers
  3. Light roasted specialty coffee by Coffee Collective

The tea/coffee baristas were very friendly, making small talk with me while they were behind the aesthetic, all white counter.

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I was allowed to sniff through the row of colourful tins of tea leaves to pick out my tea of choice – which was the caffeine-free Just Fruit tea (KRW6000). The tea incorporates tartness from hibiscus and rose hip and sweetness from apples, grapes, and a myriad of berries. This felt like a mix of a floral and fruity tea and suited my tea preference.

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My friend, a filter coffee enthusiast, had the Seasonal Filter Brew (KRW7000) which I sipped on. The coffee was very smooth with no acidic aftertaste, and an above average cup.

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Curious about their honey, I also got the raw Honey from Danish Beekeeper (spring edition) with blueberry and pecan and cheese on crackers. Unlike commercial brands of honey, this one is mildly sweet with a creamy and smooth mouthfeel. It also served as a great pairing with the crackers. As the seasons change, so does the honey and the type of pairing served here.

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Tea lovers, pin this café to your list of places to visit in Seoul.

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9.30am – 6pm daily

24 Jahamun-ro 9-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea (자하문로9길, 24 1층, 종로구, 서울특별시, 대한민국)

Yeonhui Espresso Bar 연희에스프레소바

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My first café visit during my Korea spring trip was to Yeonhui Espresso Bar (opened September 2022), which as its name suggests, is situated in the Yeonhui-dong neighbourhood. Ever since covid eased out, this area has flourished with several cafes and started gaining traction – but it remains pretty much unvisited by tourists which is why I love hanging out here.

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Perched on the second floor of a small shophouse, the café features a curved espresso bar counter in a pretty shade of nude pink with windows lined on all sides permitting the space to be bathed in sunlight. With a very limited indoor area, the seats are all outdoors, perfect for the moderate spring weather.

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Here’s how to order: pick up a piece of order sheet at the counter and indicate your order with a crayon, then pass it to the barista. You may also add in special requests if you would like. The menu is divided into 2 parts – the first featuring various coffee drinks innovated by the café, such as their Yeonhui Espresso (KRW3600, SGD3.60) which features homemade orange jam and syrup with espresso and cream. The second part is a list of the conventional types of coffee such as Americano and Flat White. There is also an option to substitute to oat milk at KRW1000 (SGD$1).

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On my first visit, I had the Oat Espresso (KRW3000, SGD3.06) which had a shot of espresso, sugar, oat milk and cocoa powder added to it. This was a small glass of coffee which explains the price. I liked the oat + espresso ratio and combination but would request for no sugar if I ordered it again.

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As I was staying in the area, I conveniently made a second trip down where I had the Crunky Gege (pronounced je-je) (KRW4000, SGD4.08), which was a relatively new creation added to the menu. It is a small cup of Strapazzato, which is a type of coffee originating from Naples, featuring espresso with sugar, cocoa powder and cream stirred together. Of course, the bar of crunky chocolate topped on the cup is a Korean addition. This was akin to a sweet, smooth and creamy espresso-flavoured emulsion. Side note that I loved their cute coffee cup design.

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There was just something very healing from sipping coffee while chasing light and shadows, watching the neighbourhood in action, unintentionally eavesdropping on conversations unfolding and thinking about nothing from my seat in the outdoor terrace.

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Weekdays 8.30am – 5pm, Weekends 9am – 5pm

128-10 Yeonhui-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

Jinhae Cherry Blossom Festival 2023 (진해군항제)

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After years of waiting for the COVID storm to calm and restrictions to lift, I finally had the chance to return to Korea, mask-free, to experience my first spring and cherry blossom viewing. Jinhae was on high priority for me since the cherry blossom festival there is one of the largest and most popular in South Korea, but its location was not the easiest to get to by public transport.

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Eventually I booked a one-day tour from Busan to Jinhae on Klook and it turned out to be a hassle-free and good experience. There were also other solo travelers like me on the tour of different nationalities. There was also an option for a day tour from Seoul to Jinhae but I would not recommend that since a one-way trip would take about 4-5 hours.

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Departing from Busan Station, we arrived slightly ahead of time at Gyeonghwa Station (경화역 벚꽃길), which was an actual railway station up till 2006. The entire length of the station was not long, it probably took only 5-10 minutes to walk from one end to the other.

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The crowd was huge considering it was a Friday morning, but it could be worse over the weekend. It was already past the blooming peak (as of 31 Mar 2023) and with the occasional strong breeze, I caught many moments of the falling petals which were simply magical.

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At noon, we left to have lunch nearby the next destination, Yeojwacheon Stream (여좌천), which was only 10 mins away by bus. Compared to Gyeonghwa Station, the cherry blossom tree-lined streets along the stream were much longer and it was a pity we didn’t manage to walk till the end and back to the starting point even after 2 hours.

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There were also more stalls (think cherry blossom ice cream, cherry blossom latte, cherry blossom hairpins…) and restaurant/café options for a break. Again, huge crowds showed up though it was still comfortable enough to walk freely without bumping into others much.

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Heading back to Busan, we encountered a considerable amount of traffic so it took close to 2 hours to reach – still a pretty comfortable ride thanks to the coach. And if you’re still wondering, yes I would recommend this day tour to Jinhae, though I would love to complete it with a night tour!

The French and Swiss Alps

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After several days of hustling with European and American crowds in Paris, I boarded a 1-hour flight direct to Geneva, Switzerland. Via a bus from the airport, I crossed back into French territory to visit Chamonix – a mountain resort in the French Alps, near the meeting point of 3 countries (France, Switzerland and Italy).

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From my petite AirBnB apartment, I was treated to a picturesque view of the quaint town against a backdrop of the snowcapped Alps. This was in April, when snow no longer fell but stuck on at high altitudes enough for skiing. 

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One of the highlights was Mer de Glace, the largest glacier in France, which I had to ascend the mountain in the Montenvers Railway for. Unfortunately, due to climate change, the glacier is fast shrinking. I took a gruelling 520 steps down endless of stairs to reach the bottom and the Ice Cave carved inside the glacier – back in 1988, only 3 steps were needed. Nonetheless, my first glacier and ice cave experience was pretty majestic.

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Other activities I did were: skiing (which I did not take a liking to), and ascending the Aiguille du Midi for a close up view of the peak of Mont Blanc (features a scary cable car ride).

Bidding goodbye to the town, I took multiple connecting trains to arrive in Zermatt, Switzerland. Compared to Chamonix, the town of Zermatt was more touristy and crowded, prices of food and other essentials were double-fold, and locals were less friendly. 

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On the brighter note, the views were magical. My favorite being the one taken from the Zermatt Matterhorn Viewpoint (it is literally named as such on Google Maps), where I caught Blue Hour. Though I believe that it would be more magnificent in winter with snow on rooftops, the view was still very much worth the hike up. 

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At Gornegrat, there was also a clear, central view of the Matterhorn, albeit with more tourists, many of which were accompanied with a bar of Toblerone… 

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