Category Archives: South Korea

Jo & Dawson Tearoom, Seoul – Is their French Toast Worth the Hype?

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Touted as the café serving the best French toast in Seoul, Jo and Dawson came to life in the café abundant neighbourhood of Yeonnam-dong in 2021. It has been attracting a steady stream of customers, both locals and foreigners since then, and is known for having long queues.

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Last year, they expanded to a more spacious, dedicated “Tearoom” just a few blocks away from the main store. I happened to be in the area, looking for a café to kill some time before my lunch reservation, and decided to pop by to take a look. Surprisingly, there was no queue at all around 1pm, so I took the opportunity to grab a seat.

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Their Signature Classic French Toast (KRW10,000, SGD8.9) was good for 1 pax. The inside was extremely soft and moist with a custard-like texture, while the top was crusty and crisp with a layer of torched sugar and powder. On the side of the plate is a pinch of sea salt for dipping as you wish, and there is a layer of syrup at the bottom. Personally, I thought the sweet and savoury flavours were well-balanced, and I loved the overall texture.

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Apart from their French Toast, Jo & Dawson is also known for their teas – the tearoom here had a dedicated display of their flavoured tea boxes on sale. These classic teas (white tea, green tea, black tea, rooibos tea) are also available on their drink menu.

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Between their classic teas and milk teas, I chose the tearoom-exclusive Matcha Milk Tea (KRW8000, SGD7.1) since there was an option to change to oat milk (only for the matcha milk tea).  The milk tea was blended with matcha powder from Marukyu Koyamaen and Okinawa brown sugar. The consistency was thick and rich, though I would prefer the sweetness level to be slightly lower and the matcha notes to be more bitter and umami. Do note that there is a minimum 1 drink per pax policy.

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Overall, I thought my experience at Jo & Dawson Tearoom was above expectation, given that I’ve heard mixed reviews. However I might not say the same if I had to queue for it. I highly recommend to try heading to the Tearoom instead of the main store which is tighter in space with limited seats.

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Also, just heard that they will be opening a third outlet in Gwanghwamun end of this month – if you’re curious to check it out.

Jo & Dawson (Main Store)

1F, 31 Donggyo-ro 41-gil, Mapo-gu, Seoul, South Korea

12pm – 9pm daily

Jo & Dawson Tearoom

3F,  24 Seongmisan-ro 29-gil, Mapo-gu, Seoul, South Korea

12pm – 9pm daily

Daejeon Café Hop 2025 – Leafful Coffee, Seosew Café, Ordinary Project Café

I first visited Daejeon in 2018 as a carefree student, and now fast forward 7 years, it was unbelievably nostalgic to return as a jaded working adult. Nonetheless, I was still as passionate as I was about café hopping, so I explored 3 different cafes with my friend within half a day. With the trip from Seoul to Daejeon taking just a little under an hour by the high-speed KTX train, Daejeon made a great option for a day trip from Seoul. I also appreciated the fact that Daejeon was less crowded and had more wallet-friendly prices.

  1. Leafful Coffee 대전카페 리풀
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Our first stop was the furthest from the central train station, about an hour commute by public transport. This spacious café exudes European vibes and is characterised by warm yellow tones, wooden furniture, whitewashed walls and purposefully placed decorative items and trinkets.

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On a sunny morning and afternoon, you can expect the space to be naturally lit through the large windows, casting lovely shadows across the front counter of the café especially. We just had to grab the window seats despite being thoroughly exposed to direct sunlight.

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We had coffee – the Flat White (KRW5000, SGD4.6) which was their version of a “short latte”, and the Latte (KRW5000) which came in a bigger cup. No non-dairy milk options when I went, but I got an update that they have an oat milk option now.

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The desserts on display were visually tempting. I had the Pistachio Berry Mousse (KRW9000, SGD8.3), which comprised an inner core of tangy and sweet strawberry and rhubarb compote, enveloped in nutty sweet pistachio mousse. The pistachio dacquoise base added a good crunchy texture to the tart.

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40 Jukdong-ro 279beon-gil, Yuseong-gu, Daejeon 34127

11am – 9pm daily, closed on Tue

2. Seosew Café & Shop 서소우

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With a completely different theme from our first café, Seosew was a café and vintage select shop we hopped over to as our next stop. The mixture of rustic wood furnishing and DIY metal shelving and racks gave the space an edgy, raw industrial look, boasting cool tones. Like Leafful, the space received lots of natural light in the afternoon.

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My friend had the Latte (KRW5000), which I felt was on the milkier side, while I had their Chamomile Tea (KRW6000, SGD5.5). While waiting for your orders, you can browse their collection and shop for vintage clothing and goods, as well as items from their own brand, such as tea coasters.

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If you’re feeling peckish, they have 2 simple desserts – the Pistachio Tiramisu (KRW8000, SGD7.3) and Strawberry Tiramisu (KRW8000).

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1F, 457, Dosol-ro, Seo-gu, Daejeon

12pm – 10pm daily, closed on Wed

3. Ordinary Project Café & Showroom 오디너리프로젝트 쇼룸, 카페

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Near Daejeon Lotte Department Store was this café and furniture showroom that might be easily missed because of the lack of a conspicuous signboard and of the fact that it is located on the second floor of the building.

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This is where you can enjoy sipping on an afternoon drink while (window) shopping for furniture. The showroom featured mainly hardwood furniture in varying shades of oak, against a backdrop of white walls, an exposed concrete ceiling and a wood panelled floor. The entire look was very clean and minimalistic. On one end of the café were large windows – a pity that it was winter when we went and missed out on the view of greenery.  

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Since we already had coffee and tea from the previous cafes, we opted for something more refreshing – the Iced Grapefruit Ade (KRW7000, SGD6.4) and the non-alcoholic Iced Lime Mojito (KRW7000). It felt weird to be sitting on chairs and placing my drinks on tables that were furniture going on sale for at least $1000~$2000. I suppose they will get brand new pieces for customers who wish to purchase them.

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Don’t forget to remove your shoes and change into the indoor slippers they provide before stepping in – we totally overlooked the sign (oops).

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12pm – 8pm daily, closed on Thu

574-1, Gyeryong-ro, Seo-gu, Daejeon 35269

3 Indoor Spots to Watch the Snow in Seoul

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On my most recent winter trip in Korea, I had planned to explore some indoor places to watch the snowfall if I got lucky. Fortunately (or unfortunately), Seoul experienced heavy snowfall during the last few days of January due to a cold wave, leading to an all-white Lunar New Year.

  1. 1in1jan Café (1인1잔)
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Eunpyeong Hanok Village (은평한옥마을)has been on my list of places to visit in Seoul for years and, NGL, I was in a dismay that it got extremely popular in the past couple of years with foreigners for its iconic café, 1in1jan. The café is probably the sole reason why most people are flocking to the hanok village nowadays, which is somewhat obscurely located in Seoul. Its 5-storey building, with a basement and rooftop, is situated advantageously with a view that overlooks the hanok village with Bukhansan in the backdrop.

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On the very day of heavy snowfall in Seoul, I was joined by many other locals and tourists in the queue for the 4th floor of the café, where you can order a full set meal.

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I had the Seasoned Chicken Leg Steak which was well-marinated with sriracha mayonnaise, with some sides of potato, roasted baby cabbage, paprika pickle, mini salad & bread. The set meal also came with a drink of my choice, which was the refreshing Omija ade.

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Despite the long wait and hustling with other patrons, the panoramic views were worth it.

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534 Yeonseo-ro, Jingwan-dong, Eunpyeong District, Seoul, South Korea 서울 은평구 연서로 534

Tues to Sun

  • Bakery & Coffee on 1st and 2nd Floor –  1인1잔(카페) – 10am – 9.30pm
  • Showroom and Café on 3rd Floor  – 1인 karimoku(쇼룸, 카페) – 10am – 8pm
  • Brunch Café on 4th and 5th Floor – 1인1상(한상차림) – 11am – 7.30pm
  • Rooftop Garden on 6th Floor – 10am – 9.30pm

2. The Forest Chosochaekbang (인왕산 더숲 초소책방)

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    After my leisurely brunch at Eunpyeong Hanok Village, I made my way via 2 local buses to Buam-dong. From the nearest bus stop, I trekked about 20 minutes to a book café nestled at the base of Inwangsan. Amidst the heavy snow, the climbing the hilly slopes was not an easy feat and felt closer to a hike instead. Thankfully there were many other people heading to and fro the café which was encouraging, and just like 1in1jan, the book café was packed with both hikers who were taking a respite and café-goers who visited deliberately for the space/view/atmosphere.

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    The book café features 2 storeys overlooking the city and has plenty of seats, both indoor and outdoor. Since it was the peak of winter, there were plastic globes in the outdoor section to keep the cold winds and snow away.   

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    A full-fledge bakery and bookstore were parked within the 1st floor of the café, from where I browsed the books, got caught in a dilemma over what to order and finally ordered and enjoyed a slice of Pumpkin cheesecake. I would love to visit again in fall, when the backdrop would be colorful.

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    172 Inwangsan-ro, Jongno District, Seoul, South Korea 종로구 인왕산로 172, Seoul, Korea

    8am – 9pm daily

    3. Kangaroo Wine Bar (캥거루)

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      As the snow started to subside, I made my way to lower ground in search of Kangaroo wine bar located in Seochon Hanok Village. Right as you step into the modern wine bar, you will see Bugaksan and the hanok village spread out under it. I highly recommend taking the high counter seats for the unobstructed view.

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      The concept of the wine bar was very casual – you pick your drinks and snacks from this area which was designed like a mini-mart, and head over to the counter for payment. There was also a proper food menu at the counter from which you can order from, featuring staples such as pasta and meat pies. Since it was compulsory to order 1 drink per person, I had a bottle of alcohol-free Mojito, along with a Pineapple Granita. Perhaps not a very good choice since I was already freezing from the cold.

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      3F 18-13, Jahamun-ro 5-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea 종로구 체부동 120-14 3F

      Tues to Sun 3pm – 11pm

      Vivre Sa Vie (비브르 사비) – White and Minimal Cafe near Suwon Hwaseong Fortress

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      On a clear autumn morning filled with gusts that signalled the transition to winter, I did a day trip out from Seoul to Suwon for the first time. The journey by the subway was convenient and fuss free. It took me slightly less than an hour and a half to get to Suwon station. From the main station, I then hopped on a bus which brought me to Suwon Hwaseong Fortress.

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      Before attempting the fortress hike, I had planned to visit Vivre Sa Vie, a café with my kind of white and minimal aesthetics. The café was run by just a kind and friendly middle-aged lady who came slightly past opening hour and was very apologetic that I waited past 10am outside the café, exposed to the chilling winds.  

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      With large glass windows along one side of the café, the café was filled with natural light and I got a clear view of the fortress walls from inside. The white walls and ceiling contrasted with the wooden and rattan furniture, while props like books and plants spruced up the small and modest space.

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      From the range of drinks and desserts on the menu, I ordered the Homemade Apple Cinnamon Tea (KRW6500) to warm myself up, along with a Matcha Terrine (KRW5,500). The tea came with an aesthetic presentation, topped with slices of apple and a small uncut apple. I recommend to several rounds of hot water as you drink it as it was very sweet.

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      Meanwhile, the Matcha Terrine was rich and dense, with a substantial bitterness of matcha that helped balance the sweetness from the tea. I loved the overall attention to detail, as can be seen from the style of plating and presentation.

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      As the owner put on her Korean autumn playlist through the speakers, I indulged in the sentiments of the season in the cosiness of the café, while not having to be conscious of others as I was the only customer on that early weekday morning. This is that one café where you can rest your mind and body.

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      193-231 Yeonmu-dong, Jangan-gu, Suwon, South Korea

      Mon, Wed to Fri 10am – 6pm (closed on Tues)

      Sat to Sun 10am – 7pm

      Protokoll Roasters (프로토콜 상수) – Aesthetic 3-storey Café in Sangsu with Great Coffee

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      I first came to know about Protokoll Roasters while they were operating their first and only outlet in Yeonhui-dong. Since then, the brand’s success has expanded enough for them to open a showroom and an aesthetic 3-storey café in Sangsu.

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      When I visited the Sangsu outlet, the showroom was unfortunately closed as they were busy running a booth at Seoul’s Coffee Expo. This showroom served as a multifunctional space for baristas to explain about Protokoll and the coffee they serve, to conduct coffee tasting and brewing classes, and for other baristas to try out their equipment – all on a reservation basis.

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      Right behind the showroom is the full-fledged café serving just coffee and financiers. As I came in right at opening hour, I explored the 3 storeys freely while waiting to collect my order. I loved the part industrial, part classroom-like interior – the exposed ceiling, bare concrete floor, wooden drawers with metal handles, metal lamps, all seemed to be in harmony with one another. The chairs and tables were also arranged to mimic a classroom setting, with stationery and notepads placed on the tables.

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      On the menu for espresso coffee, there were 2 types of beans I chose from: the Super Normal Blend, which is the very first blend created by Protokoll, and Pureut (푸릇) which is a Single Origin.

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      I had a Small Latte (KRW6000) with the Super Normal blend. It had a good body but not too heavy for me, with tasting notes of dark chocolate with a subtle tartness.

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      Apart from espresso coffee, there were also a range of Filter Coffees from Ethiopia, Costa Rica and Columbia.

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      There were only financiers (supplied by a bakery called Elder Franc) served in 4 flavours on the pastries/dessert menu – the Butter Scotch Almonds, O Lemon Marmadlade, Earl Grey Chocochip, and Espresso Vanilla. I had the Espresso Vanilla Financier (KRW3800) which was just alright. It could be rather dry to have it without the coffee pairing.

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      I highly recommend coming early to grab the window seats which gives you more privacy. Coffee connoisseurs must try this café.

      13-4 Eoulmadang-ro 2-gil, Mapo-gu, Seoul

      Sangsu Station Exit 4

      10.30am – 9pm daily

      OOJ Coffee Club, Seoul (공공재 커피 클럽) – White Aesthetic Café in Anguk, Specialising in Coffee and Tiramisu

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      The café scene in Anguk, where Bukchon Hanok Village is, is highly competitive with big names like Onion, Café Layered and London Bagel Museum attracting not just locals but foreign tourists increasingly. Not too far from these cafes is OOJ Coffee Club, which specialises in specialty coffee, drinks and tiramisu.

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      You can see why I had this café on my go-to list from the interior itself – it seemed to be effortlessly designed and set up to be minimal, with a focus on creating a white and airy space that becomes even more inviting when naturally lit with the morning sun. I found my favourite spot in the café, where the all-white camping table and camping chairs were and thought to myself to save it as an interior design inspiration for my future home.

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      I browsed through the menu, which was divided into 3 sections – Espresso base coffees (no filter here), non-coffee, and desserts.

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      Though I was highly tempted to get their specialty non-coffee drinks such as their Burning Ceylon Tea (KRW5,500) and Lime Vanilla Ade (KRW6,500), it was still early in the morning which means i was in 100% the mood for coffee.

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      I had the Oatly Latte (KRW6,000), which was slightly too bitter and acidic for me.

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      Thankfully, this was balanced out with the desserts. I came 1 week too late for the winter special which was the Strawberry Mascarpone Tiramisu (KRW9,500), so I had to go with my second choice which was the spring special – Banana Brulee Tiramisu (KRW8,500). The tiramisu base (sponge and cream) was the same for all flavours but the toppings varied. Mine was topped with a banana that was sliced and bruleed. Unlike a lot of desserts in Korea, this was subtly sweet and not overly saccharine.

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      It was a huge slice, and admittedly I had to takeaway half of it to continue with the rest of my café hopping journey that day. The one thing I appreciate in Korea is how they would pack anything for you in nice boxes with cutlery and napkins.

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      10am – 9pm daily

      35 Yoonboseon-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul, Korea

      Nearest station: Anguk Station Exit 1

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      Nest, Seoul – Rooftop Tea Café beside Tosokchon Samgyetang with View of Bukhansan

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      A few strides away from the ever-bustling Tosokchon Samgyetang (famous ginseng chicken soup) was a nondescript building which houses a tea café, Nest. From the main entrance of the building facing the main road, take the lift to the 5th floor and you would expect to see the café right in front as you step out.

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      Minimalistic in design, the café boasted exposed ceilings, a mix of wooden brown and white chairs and tables and silver counters and display cabinets. Large window panels lined the café and provided patrons a view of the neighbouring Seochon Hanok Village with Bukhansan (Mount Bukhan) in the background.

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      Towards the far end of the café, there was a retail corner that is delicately designed like a showroom, where you can get things like condiments, trays or even postcards.

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      The café operated on a self-service basis, where ordering and picking up of food was done at the counter. Specialising in tea, the menu had various teas, both caffeinated and caffeine-free which I had a hard time choosing from. Eventually, I went for the Apple Vitamin (KRW5,500 for hot, KRW6,000 for iced). The combination of hibiscus, rose hip, apple and orange made a naturally sweet fruity tea with a slight tartness. If you’re into fruit teas, this would make a great choice.

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      Food-wise, the dishes on the menu were on the healthier side, with plates like a humus salad and basil chicken sandwich. I chose the most interesting sounding one, which was the Burrata Pea Croissant (KRW14,000). It came with a croissant with ham and cheese filling, and burrata cheese, peas and a grated carrot salad on the side. The flavours were clean and healthy tasting – I had suspicions about the peas at first but they were mildly sweet and went well with the burrata. The price point was also wallet-friendly, considering there was a whole burrata.

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      For dessert, I picked the Black Sesame Roll (KRW8,000) as a black sesame fan. I enjoyed the mild black sesame flavours of the chiffon and light cream, however I found the chiffon portion slightly dry.

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      If you’re feeling peckish from touring Gyeongbokgung or in need of drinks after a heavy lunch nearby, this is a hidden café, not crowded with tourists, that you could visit.

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      21 Jahamun-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul대한민국 서울특별시 종로구 자하문로 21 5층

      11am to 10pm daily

      Nearest station: Gyeongbokgung station Exit 2

      Nachbar Coffee House, Seoul (나흐바)

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      Specialising in filter coffee, Nachbar is a small café situated in Seochon (one of my favourite neighbourhoods!) in Seoul. I first went in spring and made a return visit in autumn – that fact on its own is a big testament to how much I liked the space and coffee.

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      In spring, the cherry blossom tree right next to the café creates a picturesque little scenery and casts nice shadows on the white façade of the café. The large open windows also allow for natural light to illuminate the space and patrons to people-watch while sipping their coffees. In the café, the mood was bright and cheery.

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      At the moment, the café is owned and solely operated by its owner, a single man show. (So waiting time might be longer if it’s a full house). He gathers a small range of filter coffee beans each time and it changes on a regular basis. The prices also differ according to each type of bean. Since the café started as a filter coffee specialty bar, I had chosen the Honduras Reyes from Goro Coffee Roasters on my first visit. I enjoyed the brew which came tasting notes of lavender, peach, and brown sugar. There was a certain level of tartness and acidity which was not overpowering for me.

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      In autumn, a long carpet was rolled out in the cafe and the atmosphere became cosier, with people huddling in their winter jackets and coats. This time, I noticed the owner brought in an oat milk option so I had the Latte (KRW5500, + 500 for oat). The latte was a light roast with tanginess and tartness.

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      I also found out that the owner recently started selling homemade Cinnamon Rolls (KRW5000 each) so I got one of it. The outer layers had a slight crisp while the inner layers were slightly fluffy and sufficiently (but not overly) sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar. It would have been even better if the bread was softer and fluffier, with some cream cheese spread on top.

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      As I indulged in my coffee and pastry, I found it amazing how the same space could have a different mood and atmosphere as the seasons change.

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      42 Pirundae-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul 대한민국 서울특별시 종로구 필운대로 42

      11am – 7pm daily (check their Instagram before going!)

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      Autumn in Seoul, 2023 – 3 Spots to Catch the Fall Foliage

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      If anyone were to ask me what my favourite season is, I would answer, “Autumn” in a heartbeat. My first encounter with Autumn was 5 years ago in Korea, after which I had published some posts of the places I visited.

      Having booked my recent Autumn trip back to Korea for the 2nd week of November, I was cautious not to keep my hopes high since the peak of fall foliage usually lies between the last week of October and 1st week of November.

      Alas, I reached Seoul and was greeted with good news and bad news. Good news – there were still plenty of foliage in certain parts of Seoul. Bad news – due to the unusually warm autumn this year, many leaves could not turn yellow/orange/red. You can spot that in my photos below too.

      Still, I am grateful to catch the end to autumn (and an insanely quick transition to winter).

      Here were the 3 spots in Seoul where I caught the vibrant colours of fall.

      1. Sungkyunkwan University – Myeongnyundang Hall (성균관대학교 – 명륜당)
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      Standing majestically in the Myeongnyundang Hall in Sungkyunkwan University are a pair of gingko trees, one of which is the Natural Monument No. 59 of Korea. There are also several other gingko trees in the area. This is a well-known spot for both locals and tourists alike, so I recommend heading there early in the day to avoid the crowd.

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      Directions: The nearest subway station is Hyehwa, from which there is about a 20mins walk from Exit 4. I’ll recommend taking a bus which brings you closer to the campus.

      2. Hyoja-ro – Staff Picks (효자로 –  스태픽스)

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      The Hyoja-dong neighbourhood, including the Seochon Hanok Village, is one of my most frequented areas whenever I’m in Seoul. Compared to the adjacent Bukchon Hanok Village and palaces, this area is much less touristy and has many good independent cafes and bookstores.

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      Hyoja-ro is the road which outlines one side of the palace walls of Gyeongbokgung and I particularly love the stretch of gingko trees lining the pathway.

      Nearby, there is Staff Picks café which is strategically situated next to 2 large gingko trees.

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      Directions: From Gyeongbokgung Station, a 12 mins walk from Exit 1 will lead you to Staff Picks Café. Exits 2, 3 or 4 can lead you to Hyoja-ro.

      3. Bukhansan Ui-dong + Café Relax (북한산 우이동 카페릴렉스)

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      It was my first time going out of my way to this neighbourhood situated at the foot of the Bukhan mountain. In this little neighbourhood where the Ui-dong stream flows across, I found several bakeries, cafes and restaurants. One of which is Café Relax, which offers different sections of seating areas where you can get a good view of the fall foliage, especially the maple leaves. Unfortunately, I came a week or two too late and missed out on the best views.

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      Directions: I took a train to the Bukhansan Ui station, exited via Exit 1 and walked about 20mins to the café. Buses do not go up to this area.

      Edition Denmark, Seoul 에디션덴마크 (서촌 티쇼룸)

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      Edition Denmark is a brand founded by 2 individuals – a Danish and Korean – with the aim of introducing Danish products to Korea. There are 2 outlets in Seoul, a tea showroom in Seochon and a full-fledged café and eatery in Seongsu-dong.

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      After visiting the former in spring this year, I was impressed by their service, quality, and ambiance so much that I visited their main café in autumn. (I will review that in a separate post.) The tea showroom is a naturally lit, small and cosy space near Seochon Hanok Village which focuses on namely 3 products:

      1. Premium tea by A.C Perch’s Thehandel
      2. Raw, creamy honey by Danish Beekeepers
      3. Light roasted specialty coffee by Coffee Collective

      The tea/coffee baristas were very friendly, making small talk with me while they were behind the aesthetic, all white counter.

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      I was allowed to sniff through the row of colourful tins of tea leaves to pick out my tea of choice – which was the caffeine-free Just Fruit tea (KRW6000). The tea incorporates tartness from hibiscus and rose hip and sweetness from apples, grapes, and a myriad of berries. This felt like a mix of a floral and fruity tea and suited my tea preference.

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      My friend, a filter coffee enthusiast, had the Seasonal Filter Brew (KRW7000) which I sipped on. The coffee was very smooth with no acidic aftertaste, and an above average cup.

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      Curious about their honey, I also got the raw Honey from Danish Beekeeper (spring edition) with blueberry and pecan and cheese on crackers. Unlike commercial brands of honey, this one is mildly sweet with a creamy and smooth mouthfeel. It also served as a great pairing with the crackers. As the seasons change, so does the honey and the type of pairing served here.

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      Tea lovers, pin this café to your list of places to visit in Seoul.

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      9.30am – 6pm daily

      24 Jahamun-ro 9-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea (자하문로9길, 24 1층, 종로구, 서울특별시, 대한민국)