Category Archives: Seoul

Jo & Dawson Tearoom, Seoul – Is their French Toast Worth the Hype?

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Touted as the café serving the best French toast in Seoul, Jo and Dawson came to life in the café abundant neighbourhood of Yeonnam-dong in 2021. It has been attracting a steady stream of customers, both locals and foreigners since then, and is known for having long queues.

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Last year, they expanded to a more spacious, dedicated “Tearoom” just a few blocks away from the main store. I happened to be in the area, looking for a café to kill some time before my lunch reservation, and decided to pop by to take a look. Surprisingly, there was no queue at all around 1pm, so I took the opportunity to grab a seat.

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Their Signature Classic French Toast (KRW10,000, SGD8.9) was good for 1 pax. The inside was extremely soft and moist with a custard-like texture, while the top was crusty and crisp with a layer of torched sugar and powder. On the side of the plate is a pinch of sea salt for dipping as you wish, and there is a layer of syrup at the bottom. Personally, I thought the sweet and savoury flavours were well-balanced, and I loved the overall texture.

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Apart from their French Toast, Jo & Dawson is also known for their teas – the tearoom here had a dedicated display of their flavoured tea boxes on sale. These classic teas (white tea, green tea, black tea, rooibos tea) are also available on their drink menu.

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Between their classic teas and milk teas, I chose the tearoom-exclusive Matcha Milk Tea (KRW8000, SGD7.1) since there was an option to change to oat milk (only for the matcha milk tea).  The milk tea was blended with matcha powder from Marukyu Koyamaen and Okinawa brown sugar. The consistency was thick and rich, though I would prefer the sweetness level to be slightly lower and the matcha notes to be more bitter and umami. Do note that there is a minimum 1 drink per pax policy.

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Overall, I thought my experience at Jo & Dawson Tearoom was above expectation, given that I’ve heard mixed reviews. However I might not say the same if I had to queue for it. I highly recommend to try heading to the Tearoom instead of the main store which is tighter in space with limited seats.

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Also, just heard that they will be opening a third outlet in Gwanghwamun end of this month – if you’re curious to check it out.

Jo & Dawson (Main Store)

1F, 31 Donggyo-ro 41-gil, Mapo-gu, Seoul, South Korea

12pm – 9pm daily

Jo & Dawson Tearoom

3F,  24 Seongmisan-ro 29-gil, Mapo-gu, Seoul, South Korea

12pm – 9pm daily

3 Indoor Spots to Watch the Snow in Seoul

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On my most recent winter trip in Korea, I had planned to explore some indoor places to watch the snowfall if I got lucky. Fortunately (or unfortunately), Seoul experienced heavy snowfall during the last few days of January due to a cold wave, leading to an all-white Lunar New Year.

  1. 1in1jan Café (1인1잔)
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Eunpyeong Hanok Village (은평한옥마을)has been on my list of places to visit in Seoul for years and, NGL, I was in a dismay that it got extremely popular in the past couple of years with foreigners for its iconic café, 1in1jan. The café is probably the sole reason why most people are flocking to the hanok village nowadays, which is somewhat obscurely located in Seoul. Its 5-storey building, with a basement and rooftop, is situated advantageously with a view that overlooks the hanok village with Bukhansan in the backdrop.

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On the very day of heavy snowfall in Seoul, I was joined by many other locals and tourists in the queue for the 4th floor of the café, where you can order a full set meal.

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I had the Seasoned Chicken Leg Steak which was well-marinated with sriracha mayonnaise, with some sides of potato, roasted baby cabbage, paprika pickle, mini salad & bread. The set meal also came with a drink of my choice, which was the refreshing Omija ade.

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Despite the long wait and hustling with other patrons, the panoramic views were worth it.

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534 Yeonseo-ro, Jingwan-dong, Eunpyeong District, Seoul, South Korea 서울 은평구 연서로 534

Tues to Sun

  • Bakery & Coffee on 1st and 2nd Floor –  1인1잔(카페) – 10am – 9.30pm
  • Showroom and Café on 3rd Floor  – 1인 karimoku(쇼룸, 카페) – 10am – 8pm
  • Brunch Café on 4th and 5th Floor – 1인1상(한상차림) – 11am – 7.30pm
  • Rooftop Garden on 6th Floor – 10am – 9.30pm

2. The Forest Chosochaekbang (인왕산 더숲 초소책방)

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    After my leisurely brunch at Eunpyeong Hanok Village, I made my way via 2 local buses to Buam-dong. From the nearest bus stop, I trekked about 20 minutes to a book café nestled at the base of Inwangsan. Amidst the heavy snow, the climbing the hilly slopes was not an easy feat and felt closer to a hike instead. Thankfully there were many other people heading to and fro the café which was encouraging, and just like 1in1jan, the book café was packed with both hikers who were taking a respite and café-goers who visited deliberately for the space/view/atmosphere.

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    The book café features 2 storeys overlooking the city and has plenty of seats, both indoor and outdoor. Since it was the peak of winter, there were plastic globes in the outdoor section to keep the cold winds and snow away.   

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    A full-fledge bakery and bookstore were parked within the 1st floor of the café, from where I browsed the books, got caught in a dilemma over what to order and finally ordered and enjoyed a slice of Pumpkin cheesecake. I would love to visit again in fall, when the backdrop would be colorful.

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    172 Inwangsan-ro, Jongno District, Seoul, South Korea 종로구 인왕산로 172, Seoul, Korea

    8am – 9pm daily

    3. Kangaroo Wine Bar (캥거루)

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      As the snow started to subside, I made my way to lower ground in search of Kangaroo wine bar located in Seochon Hanok Village. Right as you step into the modern wine bar, you will see Bugaksan and the hanok village spread out under it. I highly recommend taking the high counter seats for the unobstructed view.

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      The concept of the wine bar was very casual – you pick your drinks and snacks from this area which was designed like a mini-mart, and head over to the counter for payment. There was also a proper food menu at the counter from which you can order from, featuring staples such as pasta and meat pies. Since it was compulsory to order 1 drink per person, I had a bottle of alcohol-free Mojito, along with a Pineapple Granita. Perhaps not a very good choice since I was already freezing from the cold.

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      3F 18-13, Jahamun-ro 5-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea 종로구 체부동 120-14 3F

      Tues to Sun 3pm – 11pm

      Protokoll Roasters (프로토콜 상수) – Aesthetic 3-storey Café in Sangsu with Great Coffee

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      I first came to know about Protokoll Roasters while they were operating their first and only outlet in Yeonhui-dong. Since then, the brand’s success has expanded enough for them to open a showroom and an aesthetic 3-storey café in Sangsu.

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      When I visited the Sangsu outlet, the showroom was unfortunately closed as they were busy running a booth at Seoul’s Coffee Expo. This showroom served as a multifunctional space for baristas to explain about Protokoll and the coffee they serve, to conduct coffee tasting and brewing classes, and for other baristas to try out their equipment – all on a reservation basis.

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      Right behind the showroom is the full-fledged café serving just coffee and financiers. As I came in right at opening hour, I explored the 3 storeys freely while waiting to collect my order. I loved the part industrial, part classroom-like interior – the exposed ceiling, bare concrete floor, wooden drawers with metal handles, metal lamps, all seemed to be in harmony with one another. The chairs and tables were also arranged to mimic a classroom setting, with stationery and notepads placed on the tables.

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      On the menu for espresso coffee, there were 2 types of beans I chose from: the Super Normal Blend, which is the very first blend created by Protokoll, and Pureut (푸릇) which is a Single Origin.

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      I had a Small Latte (KRW6000) with the Super Normal blend. It had a good body but not too heavy for me, with tasting notes of dark chocolate with a subtle tartness.

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      Apart from espresso coffee, there were also a range of Filter Coffees from Ethiopia, Costa Rica and Columbia.

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      There were only financiers (supplied by a bakery called Elder Franc) served in 4 flavours on the pastries/dessert menu – the Butter Scotch Almonds, O Lemon Marmadlade, Earl Grey Chocochip, and Espresso Vanilla. I had the Espresso Vanilla Financier (KRW3800) which was just alright. It could be rather dry to have it without the coffee pairing.

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      I highly recommend coming early to grab the window seats which gives you more privacy. Coffee connoisseurs must try this café.

      13-4 Eoulmadang-ro 2-gil, Mapo-gu, Seoul

      Sangsu Station Exit 4

      10.30am – 9pm daily

      OOJ Coffee Club, Seoul (공공재 커피 클럽) – White Aesthetic Café in Anguk, Specialising in Coffee and Tiramisu

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      The café scene in Anguk, where Bukchon Hanok Village is, is highly competitive with big names like Onion, Café Layered and London Bagel Museum attracting not just locals but foreign tourists increasingly. Not too far from these cafes is OOJ Coffee Club, which specialises in specialty coffee, drinks and tiramisu.

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      You can see why I had this café on my go-to list from the interior itself – it seemed to be effortlessly designed and set up to be minimal, with a focus on creating a white and airy space that becomes even more inviting when naturally lit with the morning sun. I found my favourite spot in the café, where the all-white camping table and camping chairs were and thought to myself to save it as an interior design inspiration for my future home.

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      I browsed through the menu, which was divided into 3 sections – Espresso base coffees (no filter here), non-coffee, and desserts.

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      Though I was highly tempted to get their specialty non-coffee drinks such as their Burning Ceylon Tea (KRW5,500) and Lime Vanilla Ade (KRW6,500), it was still early in the morning which means i was in 100% the mood for coffee.

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      I had the Oatly Latte (KRW6,000), which was slightly too bitter and acidic for me.

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      Thankfully, this was balanced out with the desserts. I came 1 week too late for the winter special which was the Strawberry Mascarpone Tiramisu (KRW9,500), so I had to go with my second choice which was the spring special – Banana Brulee Tiramisu (KRW8,500). The tiramisu base (sponge and cream) was the same for all flavours but the toppings varied. Mine was topped with a banana that was sliced and bruleed. Unlike a lot of desserts in Korea, this was subtly sweet and not overly saccharine.

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      It was a huge slice, and admittedly I had to takeaway half of it to continue with the rest of my café hopping journey that day. The one thing I appreciate in Korea is how they would pack anything for you in nice boxes with cutlery and napkins.

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      10am – 9pm daily

      35 Yoonboseon-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul, Korea

      Nearest station: Anguk Station Exit 1

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      Nest, Seoul – Rooftop Tea Café beside Tosokchon Samgyetang with View of Bukhansan

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      A few strides away from the ever-bustling Tosokchon Samgyetang (famous ginseng chicken soup) was a nondescript building which houses a tea café, Nest. From the main entrance of the building facing the main road, take the lift to the 5th floor and you would expect to see the café right in front as you step out.

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      Minimalistic in design, the café boasted exposed ceilings, a mix of wooden brown and white chairs and tables and silver counters and display cabinets. Large window panels lined the café and provided patrons a view of the neighbouring Seochon Hanok Village with Bukhansan (Mount Bukhan) in the background.

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      Towards the far end of the café, there was a retail corner that is delicately designed like a showroom, where you can get things like condiments, trays or even postcards.

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      The café operated on a self-service basis, where ordering and picking up of food was done at the counter. Specialising in tea, the menu had various teas, both caffeinated and caffeine-free which I had a hard time choosing from. Eventually, I went for the Apple Vitamin (KRW5,500 for hot, KRW6,000 for iced). The combination of hibiscus, rose hip, apple and orange made a naturally sweet fruity tea with a slight tartness. If you’re into fruit teas, this would make a great choice.

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      Food-wise, the dishes on the menu were on the healthier side, with plates like a humus salad and basil chicken sandwich. I chose the most interesting sounding one, which was the Burrata Pea Croissant (KRW14,000). It came with a croissant with ham and cheese filling, and burrata cheese, peas and a grated carrot salad on the side. The flavours were clean and healthy tasting – I had suspicions about the peas at first but they were mildly sweet and went well with the burrata. The price point was also wallet-friendly, considering there was a whole burrata.

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      For dessert, I picked the Black Sesame Roll (KRW8,000) as a black sesame fan. I enjoyed the mild black sesame flavours of the chiffon and light cream, however I found the chiffon portion slightly dry.

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      If you’re feeling peckish from touring Gyeongbokgung or in need of drinks after a heavy lunch nearby, this is a hidden café, not crowded with tourists, that you could visit.

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      21 Jahamun-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul대한민국 서울특별시 종로구 자하문로 21 5층

      11am to 10pm daily

      Nearest station: Gyeongbokgung station Exit 2

      Nachbar Coffee House, Seoul (나흐바)

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      Specialising in filter coffee, Nachbar is a small café situated in Seochon (one of my favourite neighbourhoods!) in Seoul. I first went in spring and made a return visit in autumn – that fact on its own is a big testament to how much I liked the space and coffee.

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      In spring, the cherry blossom tree right next to the café creates a picturesque little scenery and casts nice shadows on the white façade of the café. The large open windows also allow for natural light to illuminate the space and patrons to people-watch while sipping their coffees. In the café, the mood was bright and cheery.

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      At the moment, the café is owned and solely operated by its owner, a single man show. (So waiting time might be longer if it’s a full house). He gathers a small range of filter coffee beans each time and it changes on a regular basis. The prices also differ according to each type of bean. Since the café started as a filter coffee specialty bar, I had chosen the Honduras Reyes from Goro Coffee Roasters on my first visit. I enjoyed the brew which came tasting notes of lavender, peach, and brown sugar. There was a certain level of tartness and acidity which was not overpowering for me.

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      In autumn, a long carpet was rolled out in the cafe and the atmosphere became cosier, with people huddling in their winter jackets and coats. This time, I noticed the owner brought in an oat milk option so I had the Latte (KRW5500, + 500 for oat). The latte was a light roast with tanginess and tartness.

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      I also found out that the owner recently started selling homemade Cinnamon Rolls (KRW5000 each) so I got one of it. The outer layers had a slight crisp while the inner layers were slightly fluffy and sufficiently (but not overly) sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar. It would have been even better if the bread was softer and fluffier, with some cream cheese spread on top.

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      As I indulged in my coffee and pastry, I found it amazing how the same space could have a different mood and atmosphere as the seasons change.

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      42 Pirundae-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul 대한민국 서울특별시 종로구 필운대로 42

      11am – 7pm daily (check their Instagram before going!)

      Tagged , , , ,

      Autumn in Seoul, 2023 – 3 Spots to Catch the Fall Foliage

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      If anyone were to ask me what my favourite season is, I would answer, “Autumn” in a heartbeat. My first encounter with Autumn was 5 years ago in Korea, after which I had published some posts of the places I visited.

      Having booked my recent Autumn trip back to Korea for the 2nd week of November, I was cautious not to keep my hopes high since the peak of fall foliage usually lies between the last week of October and 1st week of November.

      Alas, I reached Seoul and was greeted with good news and bad news. Good news – there were still plenty of foliage in certain parts of Seoul. Bad news – due to the unusually warm autumn this year, many leaves could not turn yellow/orange/red. You can spot that in my photos below too.

      Still, I am grateful to catch the end to autumn (and an insanely quick transition to winter).

      Here were the 3 spots in Seoul where I caught the vibrant colours of fall.

      1. Sungkyunkwan University – Myeongnyundang Hall (성균관대학교 – 명륜당)
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      Standing majestically in the Myeongnyundang Hall in Sungkyunkwan University are a pair of gingko trees, one of which is the Natural Monument No. 59 of Korea. There are also several other gingko trees in the area. This is a well-known spot for both locals and tourists alike, so I recommend heading there early in the day to avoid the crowd.

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      Directions: The nearest subway station is Hyehwa, from which there is about a 20mins walk from Exit 4. I’ll recommend taking a bus which brings you closer to the campus.

      2. Hyoja-ro – Staff Picks (효자로 –  스태픽스)

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      The Hyoja-dong neighbourhood, including the Seochon Hanok Village, is one of my most frequented areas whenever I’m in Seoul. Compared to the adjacent Bukchon Hanok Village and palaces, this area is much less touristy and has many good independent cafes and bookstores.

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      Hyoja-ro is the road which outlines one side of the palace walls of Gyeongbokgung and I particularly love the stretch of gingko trees lining the pathway.

      Nearby, there is Staff Picks café which is strategically situated next to 2 large gingko trees.

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      Directions: From Gyeongbokgung Station, a 12 mins walk from Exit 1 will lead you to Staff Picks Café. Exits 2, 3 or 4 can lead you to Hyoja-ro.

      3. Bukhansan Ui-dong + Café Relax (북한산 우이동 카페릴렉스)

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      It was my first time going out of my way to this neighbourhood situated at the foot of the Bukhan mountain. In this little neighbourhood where the Ui-dong stream flows across, I found several bakeries, cafes and restaurants. One of which is Café Relax, which offers different sections of seating areas where you can get a good view of the fall foliage, especially the maple leaves. Unfortunately, I came a week or two too late and missed out on the best views.

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      Directions: I took a train to the Bukhansan Ui station, exited via Exit 1 and walked about 20mins to the café. Buses do not go up to this area.

      Edition Denmark, Seoul 에디션덴마크 (서촌 티쇼룸)

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      Edition Denmark is a brand founded by 2 individuals – a Danish and Korean – with the aim of introducing Danish products to Korea. There are 2 outlets in Seoul, a tea showroom in Seochon and a full-fledged café and eatery in Seongsu-dong.

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      After visiting the former in spring this year, I was impressed by their service, quality, and ambiance so much that I visited their main café in autumn. (I will review that in a separate post.) The tea showroom is a naturally lit, small and cosy space near Seochon Hanok Village which focuses on namely 3 products:

      1. Premium tea by A.C Perch’s Thehandel
      2. Raw, creamy honey by Danish Beekeepers
      3. Light roasted specialty coffee by Coffee Collective

      The tea/coffee baristas were very friendly, making small talk with me while they were behind the aesthetic, all white counter.

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      I was allowed to sniff through the row of colourful tins of tea leaves to pick out my tea of choice – which was the caffeine-free Just Fruit tea (KRW6000). The tea incorporates tartness from hibiscus and rose hip and sweetness from apples, grapes, and a myriad of berries. This felt like a mix of a floral and fruity tea and suited my tea preference.

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      My friend, a filter coffee enthusiast, had the Seasonal Filter Brew (KRW7000) which I sipped on. The coffee was very smooth with no acidic aftertaste, and an above average cup.

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      Curious about their honey, I also got the raw Honey from Danish Beekeeper (spring edition) with blueberry and pecan and cheese on crackers. Unlike commercial brands of honey, this one is mildly sweet with a creamy and smooth mouthfeel. It also served as a great pairing with the crackers. As the seasons change, so does the honey and the type of pairing served here.

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      Tea lovers, pin this café to your list of places to visit in Seoul.

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      9.30am – 6pm daily

      24 Jahamun-ro 9-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea (자하문로9길, 24 1층, 종로구, 서울특별시, 대한민국)

      H Coffee Roasters, Seochon (에이치커피 로스터스 서촌점)

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      Established in 2014, H Coffee Roasters has opened their 2nd outlet in Seoul in February this year in the peaceful and charming neighbourhood of Seochon, in addition to their flagship in Seongsu.

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      Staying in theme with the surrounding architectural landscape, the café is situated in a hanok house, with an interesting harmony of traditional elements (such as exposed wooden beams) and modern furnishings. I loved that the café is situated in a quiet, hidden corner off the main road in Seochon – I benefited from an undisturbed weekday morning having the entire space to myself.

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      The menu is simple and divided into Black, White and Non-Coffee options. There may also be special drinks on a seasonal basis. I ordered the Oat Latte (KRW5500, SGD5.50) and found out that Oatside has also become a popular oat milk brand in Korea alongside Oatly.

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      The espresso I had was pulled from their Winter blend with a mix of beans from Ethiopia, Colombia and Brazil, and with tasting notes of Strawberry, Raspberry, Sugar Cane and Creamy. It was a very light roast, much to my preference, and the texture was indeed creamy and smooth. This was easily one of my favourite cups of caffeine I’ve had.   

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      As a pairing to my drink, I had the Banana Bread (KRW6000, SGD6.06) which came with a dollop of cream. Thankfully, it was still sufficiently moist and soft despite being reheated in their mini oven.

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      I recommend getting the seat by the marble counter by the window which overlooks their tiny hanok backyard, from where I snuggled in the cosiness of the space while sipping coffee and staring into space. This café is for the true coffee lovers.

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      104 Nuha-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea (서울 종로구 필운대로5가길 11-6 에이치커피로스터스 서촌)

      Mon to Fri 10am – 6pm, Sat to Sun 11am – 7pm

      Yeonhui Espresso Bar 연희에스프레소바

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      My first café visit during my Korea spring trip was to Yeonhui Espresso Bar (opened September 2022), which as its name suggests, is situated in the Yeonhui-dong neighbourhood. Ever since covid eased out, this area has flourished with several cafes and started gaining traction – but it remains pretty much unvisited by tourists which is why I love hanging out here.

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      Perched on the second floor of a small shophouse, the café features a curved espresso bar counter in a pretty shade of nude pink with windows lined on all sides permitting the space to be bathed in sunlight. With a very limited indoor area, the seats are all outdoors, perfect for the moderate spring weather.

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      Here’s how to order: pick up a piece of order sheet at the counter and indicate your order with a crayon, then pass it to the barista. You may also add in special requests if you would like. The menu is divided into 2 parts – the first featuring various coffee drinks innovated by the café, such as their Yeonhui Espresso (KRW3600, SGD3.60) which features homemade orange jam and syrup with espresso and cream. The second part is a list of the conventional types of coffee such as Americano and Flat White. There is also an option to substitute to oat milk at KRW1000 (SGD$1).

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      On my first visit, I had the Oat Espresso (KRW3000, SGD3.06) which had a shot of espresso, sugar, oat milk and cocoa powder added to it. This was a small glass of coffee which explains the price. I liked the oat + espresso ratio and combination but would request for no sugar if I ordered it again.

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      As I was staying in the area, I conveniently made a second trip down where I had the Crunky Gege (pronounced je-je) (KRW4000, SGD4.08), which was a relatively new creation added to the menu. It is a small cup of Strapazzato, which is a type of coffee originating from Naples, featuring espresso with sugar, cocoa powder and cream stirred together. Of course, the bar of crunky chocolate topped on the cup is a Korean addition. This was akin to a sweet, smooth and creamy espresso-flavoured emulsion. Side note that I loved their cute coffee cup design.

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      There was just something very healing from sipping coffee while chasing light and shadows, watching the neighbourhood in action, unintentionally eavesdropping on conversations unfolding and thinking about nothing from my seat in the outdoor terrace.

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      Weekdays 8.30am – 5pm, Weekends 9am – 5pm

      128-10 Yeonhui-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul