Nachbar Coffee House, Seoul (나흐바)

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Specialising in filter coffee, Nachbar is a small café situated in Seochon (one of my favourite neighbourhoods!) in Seoul. I first went in spring and made a return visit in autumn – that fact on its own is a big testament to how much I liked the space and coffee.

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In spring, the cherry blossom tree right next to the café creates a picturesque little scenery and casts nice shadows on the white façade of the café. The large open windows also allow for natural light to illuminate the space and patrons to people-watch while sipping their coffees. In the café, the mood was bright and cheery.

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At the moment, the café is owned and solely operated by its owner, a single man show. (So waiting time might be longer if it’s a full house). He gathers a small range of filter coffee beans each time and it changes on a regular basis. The prices also differ according to each type of bean. Since the café started as a filter coffee specialty bar, I had chosen the Honduras Reyes from Goro Coffee Roasters on my first visit. I enjoyed the brew which came tasting notes of lavender, peach, and brown sugar. There was a certain level of tartness and acidity which was not overpowering for me.

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In autumn, a long carpet was rolled out in the cafe and the atmosphere became cosier, with people huddling in their winter jackets and coats. This time, I noticed the owner brought in an oat milk option so I had the Latte (KRW5500, + 500 for oat). The latte was a light roast with tanginess and tartness.

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I also found out that the owner recently started selling homemade Cinnamon Rolls (KRW5000 each) so I got one of it. The outer layers had a slight crisp while the inner layers were slightly fluffy and sufficiently (but not overly) sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar. It would have been even better if the bread was softer and fluffier, with some cream cheese spread on top.

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As I indulged in my coffee and pastry, I found it amazing how the same space could have a different mood and atmosphere as the seasons change.

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42 Pirundae-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul 대한민국 서울특별시 종로구 필운대로 42

11am – 7pm daily (check their Instagram before going!)

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Moonchild – New Brunch Cafe at Jalan Besar from the team behind Atlas Coffee

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Moonchild is the newest child of the team behind Atlas Coffeehouse, Columbus Coffee Co, Supernova, Neptune, Apollo Coffee Bar and the defunct Lunar Coffee Brewers – all of which I’ve been with the exception of Columbus. With this context, it was hard not to come with a certain level of expectation.

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Given that the café opened recently with much attraction to crowds, I recommend avoiding the weekend if possible or to come as early as opening hour to snag a table without queueing. On a positive note, the café had both indoor and outdoor dining areas with plenty of seats, just that they seemed to limit the number of patrons during busy periods.  

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With a range of Filters, Espresso Coffees, Teas, Natural Wines and other drinks to choose from, the drinks menu was extensive to suit all palates. From my 3 occasions here, I got to try both espresso blends for my Flat White and Latte ($5.3 for regular 7oz, +$1.1 for oat) – Mr Cuddles (Bold & Strong) and Mr Brightside (Juicy & Bright). Both blends suited my preference and my coffees had a creamy, nutty aftertaste like peanut butter.

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The food menu was divided into The Morning Situation (9am – 3pm) which offers breakfast/brunch options and Midday to Close (11am onwards) which features lunch options like pastas, rice bowls and burgers.

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I had the Potato Stack Smoked Salmon Poached Eggs ($21.9) which is their version of the eggs royale. Instead of the usual English muffin or toast, fried potato stack was used and I liked biting into the layers of potato. The eggs were also of good quality, with flowy orange golden yolks.

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The Banana Bread with Espresso Mascarpone ($12.6) was huge, I couldn’t finish it on my own for breakfast. The brown creamy layer of espresso mascarpone was addictive and paired well with the fluffy bread. Salt was also sprinkled on top and created a sweet savoury combination, like salted caramel.

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If I had to pick a favourite, it would be the Butterscotch Rum Bananas French Toast ($22). The brioche was sufficiently but not overly moist and fluffy and came well together with the other elements of butterscotch rum bananas, vanilla ice cream and candied hazelnuts.

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If you are into thin pancakes (like McDonalds’ hot cakes), I would recommend the Hotcakes with Fresh Blueberry Compote and Raspberry Butter ($19.9), which were fluffy and light.

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From the lunch menu, I tried the Unagi Don ($20.9) and it was surprisingly good. The grilled unagi was tender and optimally sweet, and was served with ikura, burnt buttered corn, furikake, nori, and Japanese rice.

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I had read reviews recommending the Really Nice Mushrooms on Toast ($19.5) which comes with grilled mushrooms, spinach, pickled shallots, creamy mushroom sauce, sourdough crumb, and 2 poached eggs. However, my friend and I found the mushrooms too salty and I thought the dish could have more depth.

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Apart from the slight disappointment with the mushrooms and toast, the other dishes left me well-fed and satisfied. With other promising and raved-about items on their menu, Moonchild could be that weekend brunch spot that is perpetually packed, just like its sister cafes.

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351 Jalan Besar, #01-01, Singapore 208988

Tues to Sat 9am – 10pm

Sun 9am – 7pm

Closed on Mon

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Moxie – Mod Mediterranean Restaurant with Beach House Vibes

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Brought to you by the folks behind Siri House is Moxie, a new modern Mediterranean restaurant and lifestyle concept. I was already impressed by the private entrance leading up to the restaurant, and the walkway from the door leading to the main dining area. The restaurant goes by the concept of a modern beach house, with the wood rattan ceiling lamps creating the vibes. I did feel like I was transported out of Singapore for a while.

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Out of the different menus available (Lunch, Dinner, Weekend Brunch, Happy Hour), we had a medley of items from the dinner menu which features communal sharing plates and platters.

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To start, we had the Moxie Dip Platter with Pita ($22 with 3 dips) comes with choice of dips and we were recommended the Spinach Yogurt, Smashed Kabocha and Whipped Ricotta. The Spinach Yogurt and Kabocha were the more interesting options, the former having a generous ratio of spinach to Greek while the latter has a light, natural sweetness of roasted Japanese pumpkin.

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Directly air flown from Puglia is their Burrata ($19), with a creamy and flowy core that was easily torn apart. The salad was completed with red beets and grapes.

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I don’t consume raw fish regularly but the Yellowtail Carpaccio ($32) was memorable. It had a slightly firm and chewy texture and was well-paired with chilli lime dressing and minced ginger flower.

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Unlike its namesake, I was thankful that the Spanish Salt Cod Croquettes ($19) were not overly salty.

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Our catch of the day was a 200g Seabass Fillet ($42) served chargrilled with salsa and charred spring onion puree. The skin had a nice, smoky taste while the meat was tender with a clean flavour.

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The Arugula Pesto Orecchiette ($38) was a seafood feast, with crab meat, prawns and scallops. The fresh prawns were my highlight – sauteed with garlic confit in oil, dried red chili, white wine, arugula pesto and butter, they reminded me of a delicious gambas al ajillo without the spice. Though we found some parts of the orecchiette overly firm, the toasted pine nuts added a layer of texture and nuttiness that kept us going for more.

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The list of cocktails at Moxie was interesting. I had a taste of the Amber Lit ($22), an Evan Williams Bourbon Infused Earl Grey Old Fashioned that was smartly paired with a small bark of rosemary and sea salt dark chocolate (70%) on top. The earl grey came as a smooth aftertaste. And well, the chocolate? I could have it as a snack all day.

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We had 3 desserts and the Dark Chocolate Mousse ($16) was my favourite, hands down. The bittersweet mousse was topped with an addictive scoop of hazelnut ice cream which was distinctly nutty and not sugary.

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The Tiramisu ($16) (note: only available for brunch) had a light, fluffy texture with a good amount of rum. The ratio of ladyfinger to custard was also in a range I preferred, i.e. not overly creamy.

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The Moxie Mille Feuille ($19) reminded us of the kunefe, with a layer of whipped cream cheese sandwiched between 2 layers of filo pastry and finished with a crown of kataifi. This was quite heavy for me and I didn’t manage to finish it.

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Overall, I thought the modern interpretation of Mediterranean food was quite well done and together with the ambience and vibes, Moxie is one dining spot I would recommend especially for large gatherings to feast on their extensive menu. The price point, I felt, was better than restaurants of similar standards in the CBD.

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This was an invited media tasting.

2 College Road, Medical Alumni Association Level 1 Singapore 169850

Tue – Thur & Sun 11.30am – 10pm

Fri & Sat 11.30am – 11.30pm

Closed on Mon

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Autumn in Seoul, 2023 – 3 Spots to Catch the Fall Foliage

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If anyone were to ask me what my favourite season is, I would answer, “Autumn” in a heartbeat. My first encounter with Autumn was 5 years ago in Korea, after which I had published some posts of the places I visited.

Having booked my recent Autumn trip back to Korea for the 2nd week of November, I was cautious not to keep my hopes high since the peak of fall foliage usually lies between the last week of October and 1st week of November.

Alas, I reached Seoul and was greeted with good news and bad news. Good news – there were still plenty of foliage in certain parts of Seoul. Bad news – due to the unusually warm autumn this year, many leaves could not turn yellow/orange/red. You can spot that in my photos below too.

Still, I am grateful to catch the end to autumn (and an insanely quick transition to winter).

Here were the 3 spots in Seoul where I caught the vibrant colours of fall.

  1. Sungkyunkwan University – Myeongnyundang Hall (성균관대학교 – 명륜당)
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Standing majestically in the Myeongnyundang Hall in Sungkyunkwan University are a pair of gingko trees, one of which is the Natural Monument No. 59 of Korea. There are also several other gingko trees in the area. This is a well-known spot for both locals and tourists alike, so I recommend heading there early in the day to avoid the crowd.

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Directions: The nearest subway station is Hyehwa, from which there is about a 20mins walk from Exit 4. I’ll recommend taking a bus which brings you closer to the campus.

2. Hyoja-ro – Staff Picks (효자로 –  스태픽스)

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The Hyoja-dong neighbourhood, including the Seochon Hanok Village, is one of my most frequented areas whenever I’m in Seoul. Compared to the adjacent Bukchon Hanok Village and palaces, this area is much less touristy and has many good independent cafes and bookstores.

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Hyoja-ro is the road which outlines one side of the palace walls of Gyeongbokgung and I particularly love the stretch of gingko trees lining the pathway.

Nearby, there is Staff Picks café which is strategically situated next to 2 large gingko trees.

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Directions: From Gyeongbokgung Station, a 12 mins walk from Exit 1 will lead you to Staff Picks Café. Exits 2, 3 or 4 can lead you to Hyoja-ro.

3. Bukhansan Ui-dong + Café Relax (북한산 우이동 카페릴렉스)

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It was my first time going out of my way to this neighbourhood situated at the foot of the Bukhan mountain. In this little neighbourhood where the Ui-dong stream flows across, I found several bakeries, cafes and restaurants. One of which is Café Relax, which offers different sections of seating areas where you can get a good view of the fall foliage, especially the maple leaves. Unfortunately, I came a week or two too late and missed out on the best views.

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Directions: I took a train to the Bukhansan Ui station, exited via Exit 1 and walked about 20mins to the café. Buses do not go up to this area.

Edition Denmark, Seoul 에디션덴마크 (서촌 티쇼룸)

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Edition Denmark is a brand founded by 2 individuals – a Danish and Korean – with the aim of introducing Danish products to Korea. There are 2 outlets in Seoul, a tea showroom in Seochon and a full-fledged café and eatery in Seongsu-dong.

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After visiting the former in spring this year, I was impressed by their service, quality, and ambiance so much that I visited their main café in autumn. (I will review that in a separate post.) The tea showroom is a naturally lit, small and cosy space near Seochon Hanok Village which focuses on namely 3 products:

  1. Premium tea by A.C Perch’s Thehandel
  2. Raw, creamy honey by Danish Beekeepers
  3. Light roasted specialty coffee by Coffee Collective

The tea/coffee baristas were very friendly, making small talk with me while they were behind the aesthetic, all white counter.

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I was allowed to sniff through the row of colourful tins of tea leaves to pick out my tea of choice – which was the caffeine-free Just Fruit tea (KRW6000). The tea incorporates tartness from hibiscus and rose hip and sweetness from apples, grapes, and a myriad of berries. This felt like a mix of a floral and fruity tea and suited my tea preference.

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My friend, a filter coffee enthusiast, had the Seasonal Filter Brew (KRW7000) which I sipped on. The coffee was very smooth with no acidic aftertaste, and an above average cup.

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Curious about their honey, I also got the raw Honey from Danish Beekeeper (spring edition) with blueberry and pecan and cheese on crackers. Unlike commercial brands of honey, this one is mildly sweet with a creamy and smooth mouthfeel. It also served as a great pairing with the crackers. As the seasons change, so does the honey and the type of pairing served here.

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Tea lovers, pin this café to your list of places to visit in Seoul.

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9.30am – 6pm daily

24 Jahamun-ro 9-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea (자하문로9길, 24 1층, 종로구, 서울특별시, 대한민국)

H Coffee Roasters, Seochon (에이치커피 로스터스 서촌점)

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Established in 2014, H Coffee Roasters has opened their 2nd outlet in Seoul in February this year in the peaceful and charming neighbourhood of Seochon, in addition to their flagship in Seongsu.

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Staying in theme with the surrounding architectural landscape, the café is situated in a hanok house, with an interesting harmony of traditional elements (such as exposed wooden beams) and modern furnishings. I loved that the café is situated in a quiet, hidden corner off the main road in Seochon – I benefited from an undisturbed weekday morning having the entire space to myself.

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The menu is simple and divided into Black, White and Non-Coffee options. There may also be special drinks on a seasonal basis. I ordered the Oat Latte (KRW5500, SGD5.50) and found out that Oatside has also become a popular oat milk brand in Korea alongside Oatly.

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The espresso I had was pulled from their Winter blend with a mix of beans from Ethiopia, Colombia and Brazil, and with tasting notes of Strawberry, Raspberry, Sugar Cane and Creamy. It was a very light roast, much to my preference, and the texture was indeed creamy and smooth. This was easily one of my favourite cups of caffeine I’ve had.   

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As a pairing to my drink, I had the Banana Bread (KRW6000, SGD6.06) which came with a dollop of cream. Thankfully, it was still sufficiently moist and soft despite being reheated in their mini oven.

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I recommend getting the seat by the marble counter by the window which overlooks their tiny hanok backyard, from where I snuggled in the cosiness of the space while sipping coffee and staring into space. This café is for the true coffee lovers.

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104 Nuha-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea (서울 종로구 필운대로5가길 11-6 에이치커피로스터스 서촌)

Mon to Fri 10am – 6pm, Sat to Sun 11am – 7pm

Wyd Coffee Stand 와이드 커피 스탠드– Rooftop Café in Yeosu with Healing Sea View

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During my Korea spring vacation, I made a detour to Yeosu, a city in way down south famous for its seafood and view of the sea. Of course, I couldn’t leave any city without at least a café trip so I picked one out of the many cafes situated on the hilly region (note that you would be ascending stairs and slopes) beside Yi Sun Shin Plaza.

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At Wyd Coffee Stand, the highlight was undoubtedly the unobstructed, healing view of the sea and Dolsan bridge. If you would like to see the sunset, come in the evening. The café had 3 levels, and the rooftop open air terrace seats were definitely the best viewing spots for that.

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Since we were there on a cloudless, sunny and relatively warm spring day, we opted for the indoor seats which still gave us a good view thanks to the floor-to-ceiling windows. There was also a large communal table strictly for groups of more than 4. The interior seemed to be influenced by the modern mid-century theme with a clean white tone and look.

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The drinks menu was extensive with both coffee (espresso based and hand drip) and non-caffeinated options. I got the Flat White (KRW6000, SGD6) which was disappointingly bitter – I had heard that the coffee here was decently good. My friend made the better choice of ordering the Grape Ade (KRW7000, SGD7) which was sweet and refreshing in the heat.

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There were a variety of desserts displayed on a table opposite the coffee bar, and we couldn’t help but notice that some customers were having bagels which were not being displayed. Upon asking, it turned out that the café owners allowed patrons to takeaway bagels from a bagel shop across the street and have them here. (However, note that there is a policy of minimum 1 drink per person).

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Hopping across the road to Birthday Bagel, we found ourselves in a quaint and charming bagel and natural wine shop – never thought that this combination would work. We brought the Chocolate Salt Butter Bagel (KRW4500, SGD4.50) and Apricot Cream Cheese Bagel (KRW4100, SGD4.10) in paper bags back to the café where the staff plated them for us. I personally preferred the latter as the apricot and cream cheese combination was lighter on the palate. The chocolate bagel was drier and lacked a good filling.

Nearby, there were many other cafes, gift shops and a mural village which I recommend checking out.

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Wyd Coffee Stand

Weekdays 12pm – 9pm, Weekends 11am – 9pm

Goso-3-gil 64, Yeosu-si, Jeollanam-do, South Korea (대한민국 전라남도 여수시 고소3길 64)

Birthday Bagel

Thur – Mon 11am to 5pm, closed on Tues & Wed

Goso-3-gil 63, Yeosu-si, Jeollanam-do, South Korea (대한민국 전라남도 여수시 고소3길 63)

Paaru Cafe and Bakery (パール)

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Already buzzing with customers despite soft launching less than 1 month ago, Paaru is perhaps one of the hottest new openings among café-goers.

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Brought to you by the folks behind Punch, Gather, and Asaru Studio, the Japanese-themed café is reminiscent of the style at Asaru Studio which is just a few units away, within Pearl’s Hill Terrace. The interior is designed like a Japanese tea house, and dimly lit with a few lightbulbs.

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Outside, there are some stools for those in the queue/waitlist, and a mini garden with bamboo that is befitting of the overall theme.

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I had the White ($6, +$1 for oat) and the Mocha ($6.50, +$1 for oat) on a separate occasion, and I preferred the Mocha as it masked the acidity of the coffee without the chocolate overpowering.

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Apart from coffee, the menu offers a few simple all-day breakfast dishes, featuring their signature shokupan (Japanese milk bread) which is made in-house at Paaru Bakery a few doors down. I opted for the Eggs on Shokupan ($12), which was decent with smooth scrambled eggs (slightly more firm than soft and creamy) and the savoury slice of toast. Though I did wish that the portion was bigger.

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For a sweet option, there is the French Toast Shokupan ($12) topped with kuromitsu (Japanese black sugar syrup), cacao nibs, sea salt and fresh cream. Since only half a slice of shokupan was used, this made for a good snack but not a satisfying breakfast.

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Don’t forget to check out the bakery, which is helmed by an experienced Japanese baker in collaboration with the café. This serves more of a takeaway store, though there is a bench inside if you would like to eat on the spot. A range of bread and cakes are freshly baked and made available at different times throughout the day.

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As I was there at their opening time at 9am, only the shokupan loaves, madeleines ($2 each) and financiers ($2 each) were available after a 30-minute wait. Thankfully, the warm madeleine, fresh out of the oven, was soft and fluffy. I would love to be back for the other cakes (think Mont Blanc, Strawberry Shortcake, Rare Cheese Tart).

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Paaru Bakery

Open 9am – 6pm daily except Wed

195 Pearl’s Hill Terrace, #01-61, Singapore 168976

Paaru Cafe

Weekdays 9am – 7pm (closed on Wed)

Weekends 8am – 6pm

195 Pearl’s Hill Terrace, #01-61, Singapore 168976

Keijometo

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Probably one of the most visited cafés by Singaporeans in JB in the past year or so, Keijometo is an industrial-themed café and gallery serving Japanese dishes and drinks. The Grab ride from JB Sentral took just about 15 mins.

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Surrounded with stone and gravel landscaping details and concrete tile-paved paths, the tall concrete café is designed like an art exhibition space with mismatched furniture. Though we did not manage to get to the café when it opened at 11am, we were lucky enough to score the empty seats by the window around 11.30am. Shortly after we were seated, a queue started to form.

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Ordering is done via a QR code while payment can be made by cash or card. In view of the weather, we wanted a refreshing drink and tried the Watermelon Matcha Iced Latte (RM14, SGD4.10).  A pity that the watermelon overpowered the matcha – it felt like watermelon juice for the most part of it, despite the even pink-green visuals.

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As a side, we had one of the most popular items here, the Mentaiko Tamago Sando (RM20, SGD5.90). Three huge chunks of deep-fried tamago were each sandwiched between 2 pieces of fluffy white toast and topped off with a generous serving of aburi mentaiko sauce. This was sinfully tasty, but I recommend sharing it between 2 pax so it does not get overwhelming.

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The Salmon Ochazuke (RM30, SGD8.80) was quite a steal for its price, featuring 2 pieces of grilled onigiri with a slab of pan-fried salmon and hot green tea on the side to steep the rice in. The salmon was not the most tender or moist I’ve had, but it was overall a comforting dish and I loved that the tea helped to ease the greasiness of the sando.

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We ordered the Hojicha Burnt Cheesecake (RM21, SGD6.20) as it sounded promising. Though it was not quite burnt on the exterior, the interior was rich and not overly sweet. A decent end to our brunch.

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Before coming, I heard mixed reviews and did not expect much but I left pretty satisfied from the ambience, service and food.

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3, Jalan Chengai, Taman Melodies, 80250 Johor Bahru, Johor, Malaysia

Tues – Sun 11am to 7pm

Yeonhui Espresso Bar 연희에스프레소바

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My first café visit during my Korea spring trip was to Yeonhui Espresso Bar (opened September 2022), which as its name suggests, is situated in the Yeonhui-dong neighbourhood. Ever since covid eased out, this area has flourished with several cafes and started gaining traction – but it remains pretty much unvisited by tourists which is why I love hanging out here.

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Perched on the second floor of a small shophouse, the café features a curved espresso bar counter in a pretty shade of nude pink with windows lined on all sides permitting the space to be bathed in sunlight. With a very limited indoor area, the seats are all outdoors, perfect for the moderate spring weather.

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Here’s how to order: pick up a piece of order sheet at the counter and indicate your order with a crayon, then pass it to the barista. You may also add in special requests if you would like. The menu is divided into 2 parts – the first featuring various coffee drinks innovated by the café, such as their Yeonhui Espresso (KRW3600, SGD3.60) which features homemade orange jam and syrup with espresso and cream. The second part is a list of the conventional types of coffee such as Americano and Flat White. There is also an option to substitute to oat milk at KRW1000 (SGD$1).

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On my first visit, I had the Oat Espresso (KRW3000, SGD3.06) which had a shot of espresso, sugar, oat milk and cocoa powder added to it. This was a small glass of coffee which explains the price. I liked the oat + espresso ratio and combination but would request for no sugar if I ordered it again.

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As I was staying in the area, I conveniently made a second trip down where I had the Crunky Gege (pronounced je-je) (KRW4000, SGD4.08), which was a relatively new creation added to the menu. It is a small cup of Strapazzato, which is a type of coffee originating from Naples, featuring espresso with sugar, cocoa powder and cream stirred together. Of course, the bar of crunky chocolate topped on the cup is a Korean addition. This was akin to a sweet, smooth and creamy espresso-flavoured emulsion. Side note that I loved their cute coffee cup design.

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There was just something very healing from sipping coffee while chasing light and shadows, watching the neighbourhood in action, unintentionally eavesdropping on conversations unfolding and thinking about nothing from my seat in the outdoor terrace.

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Weekdays 8.30am – 5pm, Weekends 9am – 5pm

128-10 Yeonhui-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul